How to Lower Total Alkalinity and Adjust pH in a Swimming Pool

What Causes pH and Alkalinity to Rise?

One of the major reasons why pH rises above the recommended level for a swimming pool is using calcium hypochlorite (powder chlorine) pool shock to sanitize pool water. Calcium hypochlorite has high pH and calcium levels and will significantly increase the pool’s pH if you don’t take prior measures to balance it.

An abnormal rise in pH may also be caused by the water source. It could be possible that your pool fill water is already high in alkalinity and will, therefore, increase your pH once it mixes with the alkalinity increaser you are using. Test your water source for alkalinity and use a different source if it has high total alkalinity (TA) because you’ll need to use too much dry acid more often to lower both pH and TA in your swimming pool.

Achieving Balance

Getting a perfect balance of pH and alkalinity is a little tricky since acid will lower both but not at the same rate. If your pool has high pH and TA, here is the easiest way to lower and balance them without using extra equipment like an aerator.

To avoid pH and TA issues, closely monitor your alkalinity levels. You also need to be very careful when sanitizing your pool using granular chlorine to avoid pH and calcium scaling. I highly recommend shocking your pool using liquid chlorine.

This article is for anyone who needs to lower high total alkalinity (TA) and high pH to the recommended levels for a swimming pool. All you have to do is add muriatic acid to lower both total alkalinity and pH, then aerate the pool to balance pH.

Note: It usually takes me an average of 48 hours to achieve the perfect balance of total alkalinity and pH. However, this process requires patience, as it may take a day, two days, one week, or even longer, depending on the extreme TA and pH levels in your pool.

Tip to Avoid High Alkalinity

Add an alkalinity increaser slowly while measuring its level. Always ensure that your Total Alkalinity (TA) is within the recommended range of 80–120ppm because if it goes above 120ppm, your pH will definitely rise high.

How to Lower Alkalinity and pH

Natural aeration (not using any equipment to speed up the process) is highly recommended, but if you need faster results, I have included a list of equipment that will help speed up the process and instructions for how to use it at the end of this article.

If you decide to use aerators, extra care must be taken to avoid over-aeration. Over-aeration raises the pH levels and lowers the calcium carbonate levels beyond recommended levels, which can cause significant damage to the pool.

You’ll Need:

• Muriatic acid: The success of lowering alkalinity largely depends on the acid you use. I like using Sunnyside Muriatic Acid because it works very quickly. Some people use sodium bisulfate, but I find muriatic to be the most effective. Wear goggles, gloves, and long sleeves when working with this substance or any other chemicals.
• Accurate pool water test kit: I prefer the WWD Pool Test Kit. You need a very accurate test kit for this process. The more accurate your readings are, the easier your work will be. Most of the test strips out there are not accurate and will make your job more difficult.

Natural Aeration Steps

1. Take accurate readings of TA and pH using a reliable test kit.
2. Dilute muriatic acid and distribute it evenly in the pool. Use a pool calculator to get the exact amount of acid needed. Your target TA level should be 100 ppm.
3. Allow the pool water to aerate naturally without using any aerators such as spa jets, waterfalls, fountains, return pointers, air compressors, or the like. Aeration helps bring up the pH level if it goes too low. The recommended level for pH is around 7.4 or 7.6.
4. Take readings after six hours, then after 24, and then after 48 to make sure all chemicals are balanced. If you’re lucky, and the pH level doesn’t go below the normal range, then you do not need to do anything more.
5. If pH levels are still too low after 48 hours, and you want to speed up the process, use an air compressor to accelerate the aeration process (optional).

What Is Aeration?

This is a process that restores pH levels. (Don’t get tense. It’s not rocket science!). pH levels may go down after a strong acid like muriatic is added, so aeration is needed to restore the recommended pH levels naturally without adding a pH increaser, which increases alkalinity.

Simplest Way to Decrease Total Alkalinity and pH Levels

1. Take Accurate Readings of pH and TA in the Pool

Use your digital test kit to do this. Let’s say that the pH reads 8.3 and total alkalinity reads 280 ppm, which are the real values from a pool I worked on last. Your readings may be higher or lower, but let’s just use these numbers as an example to help you understand this process.

Ideal TA and pH Levels

• Your target TA should be 100 ppm. TA in the 80-120 ppm is considered balanced.

• Your target pH level is around 7.4 or 7.6

2. Set a Target Value for Total Alkalinity

In the same example above, I set my target value of TA at 100 ppm. It is important to note that both the levels of TA and pH reduce when acid is added. A target value of 80 ppm or 90 ppm should be just fine, but I anticipated that the levels of pH would drop way below 7.0 when I add a strong acid, so my experience told me that 100 ppm was ideal for raising the level of pH later on through aeration.

Use a pool calculator to calculate the exact amount of muriatic acid you will need in order to achieve the target value of 100 ppm for TA, or whichever target value you have chosen.

In this step, don’t worry too much about the pH yet. The main aim is to lower the total alkalinity to the recommended levels. Later on, you can aerate to raise the pH level if it goes much lower than is recommended.

3. Dilute Muriatic Acid as Directed and Add It to the Water

The amount of muriatic acid you use depends on the pool size. In my example, the pool holds 20,000 gallons. To get my target value of 100 ppm, I needed to add about two quarts of muriatic acid.

I usually distribute the muriatic acid solution slowly around the pool while the pump is running high to increase the effect.

Some pool managers prefer adding the muriatic acid solution in one spot. Personally, I don’t like to do this because acid can damage pool parts when it is concentrated in one region.

The natural process of aeration begins after you add the muriatic acid, and the levels of pH and TA fall and settle. During the aeration process, the levels of pH alone will rise gradually until it reaches the recommended level.

4. Test the Pool Water’s Alkalinity and pH After 6 Hours

You will monitor changes in pH and alkalinity levels by testing every six hours until they reach the right range. If the pH is within the normal range after adding muriatic acid, then you are done.

Taking the reading after six hours is just to help you know whether you are making any improvements in lowering the TA and pH. Amazingly, when I tested the water six hours later, the total alkalinity read around 205 ppm (down from the original 280 ppm), and pH was at 7.6 (from where we started at 8.3). Your numbers may be different, but you should see a similar reduction in your process too.

5. Take Readings Again After 24 Hours

The next day, a full 24 hours after I started my test, the total alkalinity had gone down to 120 ppm. This is not the 100 ppm target value I set, but I was still impressed since 120 ppm is already within the recommended value for a standard swimming pool.

On the other hand, pH was lower, reading 7.1. I didn’t worry too much about this because according to my digital pool water test kit and pool calculator, the lowest it pH can go is 6.8 and still be okay and non-destructive. Plus, the aeration process wasn’t finished.

Since both chemicals were within a reasonable range, all was fine for me. So I waited to take my next reading in the evening, approximately 5 to 6 hours later. At that time, TA was ranging at 106 ppm, and pH had dropped to 6.9.

This means that total alkalinity was inching closer to my target value of 100 despite pH going down. (Again, don’t worry much about the pH yet because the “magical” aeration process is still going on.)

6. Take Final Water Test 48 Hours Later

After two days and two nights of closely monitoring the process, I took the reading in the morning. Total alkalinity in my example read 101 ppm, which is not bad at all. The pH was stable at 7.4. Remember that even if the natural aeration process is not complete, pH levels will not likely rise above the recommended levels because the alkalinity is within range, and no pH increaser was used in this process.

How Does Aeration Increase pH Levels?

When you aerate, you are exposing the water to more oxygen in order to do away with some of the carbon dioxide. When carbon dioxide mixes with water, it forms an acid we call carbonic acid, which lowers the pH levels.

On the other hand, when acid is removed from the water, the pH level rises. Aeration literally removes carbonic acid from the water, which then raises the pH levels.

I always recommend natural aeration because, with this method, you cannot over-aerate your pool, which is a very common issue when aeration equipment is used.

In fact, over-aeration is dangerous since you need some carbonate to act as a pH buffer. Carbonate is useful in plaster pools because it prevents the plaster from dissolving. In the case of over-aeration, pH will rise above the recommended levels while calcium carbonate will reduce below the required level.

To fix this, you’ll need to adjust the pH and calcium carbonate levels to avoid any further damage.

Overview of Aeration: Balancing Total Alkalinity and pH

Aeration is a complicated process. It involves pointing the returns upwards and running the pump on high speed to create surface disturbance, which introduces air. You must go through this process until the perfect natural equilibrium is reached between water and air.

How the Aeration Process Works

1. You start by adding muriatic acid as needed in the pool. This will lower both the pH and total alkalinity. You must repeat this step until you get a perfect chemical balance.
2. In most cases, when total alkalinity goes up, pH will drift up as well. Unfortunately, there is no pool chemical that can lower pH only without lowering total alkalinity—maybe one day chemical engineers will invent that kind of chemical 🙂 In other words, if you lower a pH of 8.3 to the recommended level using muriatic acid, the total alkalinity will also reduce but will still remain on the higher side. Likewise, if you lower alkalinity to the recommended level (e.g., from 300 ppm to 80 ppm), the pH level drops way below the recommended level.
3. If you add a strong acid like muriatic and then add a base like soda ash to raise total alkalinity, it will not work. This is because both chemicals (base and acid) will cancel each other, leaving your pool in the same initial mess.
4. Aeration is a repetitive process that is done slowly, step by step. Your goal is to use muriatic acid to reach the target value of total alkalinity without letting pH go below 6.8. If the pH falls, you can raise it without affecting total alkalinity by aerating.

Accelerating the Aeration Process Using an Air Compressor

Using an air compressor at the surface of the water will add more disturbance and speed up the process.

1. Try an air compressor with an end tube that has several tiny holes in it.
2. Place it in the deep end. The small bubbles that escape from the holes produce carbon dioxide, which is released to accelerate the aeration process.
3. Do this with the pump running high.

With an air compressor, it may take only a few hours to get TA and pH back to recommended levels.

• Use a degasser to remove carbon dioxide faster.
• Use venture injectors.
• Use manifolds with holes.
• Use a pressure washer aimed into the water to create turbulence.
• Use return lines that are aimed up (e.g., waterfalls or spillways).

Common Problems With Total Alkalinity and pH Levels

1. If your pool’s pH is high but total alkalinity is OK, pick up a pH Reducer and get it down to recommended levels (between 7.2 and 7.8). Remember not to use muriatic acid in this case since it will lower your TA. I always use liquid pH Minus by Kem-Tek, which is always very effective and quick compared to other brands.
2. If you already know you have low pool alkalinity but pH is OK, get some alkalinity increaser to bring it back up to the recommended levels, and do it fast to avoid corrosion. Alkalinity Increaser by Pool Mate is one of my best options since it is effective and pocket-friendly. I have used it ever since I started in the pool service business, and I have never changed to any other. TA should be kept between 80 and 120 ppm for pools with liners and between 100 and 125 ppm for pools made of plaster.
3. If your pH is high and alkalinity is low in the same water, you may need to add pH reducer/minus and then alkalinity increaser to your pool to lower pH and increase alkalinity, respectively.
4. In very rare cases, your total alkalinity may be high but with a low pH in the same pool. If so, using muriatic acid directly to lower TA is not a good idea since this will further lower pH down to very dangerous levels for a swimming pool. In this case, the best thing to do first is to use borax (I’ve found 20 Mule Team Borax to be a good brand) to raise the level of pH without raising your TA, and then carefully add muriatic acid to lower both. This product is the most effective one I’ve found, and I use it for my clients. It is a better option than pH increaser/plus since it does not affect other chemicals in the pool but only increases pH.

Alternatively, you can naturally aerate (use an aerator if natural aeration is taking longer) your pool while the pump is on 24/7 to raise the pH level between 7.6 and 7.8 or higher, which might take a couple of days. Then, lower both the TA and pH using muriatic acid slowly and carefully while watching for the pH levels not to go very down. Repeat the process until you get the required levels for both total alkalinity and pH.

Should I Use Soda Ash and Baking Soda to Raise pH?

Last month, a close friend of mine who has a plaster pool informed me that his pH had drifted significantly. I realized that he was using soda ash to increase the pH whenever it dropped below the recommended level and baking soda to raise TA. Some parts of the internet recommend this as a quick fix, but don’t do it!

Soda ash and baking soda raise alkalinity to abnormal levels, which in turn also increases the pH disproportionately. When I checked my friend’s pool, the pH was 8.2 and scaling up higher day by day. Total alkalinity was reading well over 280 ppm, when the recommended values should be between 80 ppm and 120 ppm.

Luckily, the calcium level did not scale as expected due to the calcium saturation index—it was within the expected range of 250 ppm. Calcium scaling causes cloudy pool water.

If you have a cloudy swimming pool water or a pool algae breakout, then it is likely caused by high TA and high pH levels and you need to shock the pool to balance everything out again.

How Does High Alkalinity Harm Your Pool?

• A high TA level has the potential indirect risk of affecting how all chemicals function in a pool. For instance, the pH—one of the most important chemicals in the pool—is hugely affected by total alkalinity. When alkalinity goes too high, the pH will drift to the higher end, and this will render all chemicals, including chlorine, useless.
• On the other hand, when the TA goes too low, the pH will drift down. This is very destructive to the pool’s structure and equipment and harmful to human health.
• High total alkalinity is also associated with calcium saturation index (CSI), a process that causes calcium scaling and results in high pH levels.

Can You Safely Swim in a Pool With High Alkalinity?

As long as you have enough chlorine in your pool (around 3ppm for total chlorine) and the pH level is balanced (between 7.4 to 7.8), then a pool with high total alkalinity is still safe to swim in. You should, however, balance TA as soon as possible because it can lead to calcium scaling and cloudy water—a breeding ground for bacteria.

Comments

Barack James (author) from Green City in the Sun on August 25, 2020:

Borax should always read between 30ppm to 50ppm, the best thing to do is to add borax slowly by slowly while measuring your levels.

For Muriatic Acid Dosage: 1.95 qts reduces TA by 20ppm in a 15000 gallons pool, you should also add muriatic acid slowly while testing your pH so that your pH level do not go lower than 7.2 and repeat the process until TA is within the range of 80 to 120ppm.

Courtney on August 25, 2020:

I have been fighting with a low ph (6.8) all summer my alkalinity is also high (240). I added borax last night to increase the ph and then I was going to do the muriatic acid to lower ph and alkalinity. Can you tell me how much borax and muriatic acid to add for a 15000 gallon above ground vinyl pool? I use the Clorox xtra blue chlorine tabs in the skimmer and I have heard this can case issues?

Barack James (author) from Green City in the Sun on June 26, 2020:

Good you have no metals in your pool being that you are using well fillwater. Start by lowering the pH and TA to recommended levels using Muriatic.

The milky water is due to low chlorine in your water and you need sufficient liquid chlorine to clear the chloramine that is making your water cloudy.

Melinda Lindsey on June 25, 2020:

Heres you a big pool mystery

We have 10000 pool, filled well water. We have high ph water. But no iron! More like great spring water. Anyways filled pool shocked it. Next thing tested, at home and at local pool company. Ph 8.4 or more, TA 249 or more. Add acid so far 2 gallon over a weeks time. Both came down very little. Waited a day shocked it. Tested again still high. And water is so milky… We clean, vac over and over I added 2 cups of clarifier because the vac just picks up the crap that is like milky very fine dust and puts it by in the pool. Tonight I am going to add another half gallon of acid. Fingers crossed!

And we have Type A filter, cleaning it every 2 to 4 hours. This issue is driving me crazy! Ive tried everything. Should we add the chemical that makes that bond to bigger pieces at the bottom of the pool and then vacuum to waste? Because we will still be adding well water if we have to replace it???????omg

Barack James (author) from Green City in the Sun on August 15, 2019:

“…there is no pool chemical that can lower pH without lowering TA”. This is because any strong acid like Muriatic acid or any pH minus with acid will lower both pH and TA. That should be the correct statement. Borax will raise pH without raising TA. Thanks!

RZ on August 15, 2019:

Your article says “Unfortunately, there is no pool chemical that can raise pH only without raising total alkalinity—maybe one day chemical engineers will invent that kind of chemical :)” but later says “use 20 Mule Team Borax to raise the level of pH without raising your TA.” Could you please clarify?

Barack James (author) from Green City in the Sun on August 02, 2019:

Hello Susan, it’s true Muriatic acid will lower both pH and TA. I suggest you raise TA first because it’s way below recommended range of 80 to 120ppm and if you add acid it go down further. Baking soda will increase pH also but not so much, so you will need to raise TA slightly higher than 120ppm so that when you add acid to lower both, TA will not go lower than 80ppm. It’s a lot of work but that is the only way you can get it done.

Susan A Newton on August 02, 2019:

Hello Barack,

Update; TA is 60

pH is 8.2

chl is .5

This is what the pool calculator is saying to do……

pH SUGGESTION:

Add 31 fl oz by volume of Muriatic Acid – 28.3% (18°) Baumé.

31 fl oz is 3 cups 7 fl oz .

Note: pH calculations depend on TA and Borate. Changing pH will also change TA.

TA suggestion is…..

Add 236 oz by weight or 188 fl oz by volume of baking soda.

236 oz is 15 lbs 0 oz.

188 fl oz is 1 gallons 2 quarts .

NOTE: Adding baking soda will raise pH.

I’m at a loss, If I do either they move. Any suggestions would be a great help. Thank you

Barack James (author) from Green City in the Sun on July 31, 2019:

Okay, meanwhile you can keep adding chlorine to keep algae and ammonia away.

Susan A Newton on July 31, 2019:

UPDATE : Well I went and tested the water again and I think I’m getting bad reading from the test strips . Here are some of the readings.

This is just today,

TH TC FC PH TA Stabilizer TIME of DAY

250 0 0 7.8 240 50 10:35am

250 0 0 6.8 180 50 10: 38 am

110 1 0 6.8 180 50 10:58 am

250 0 0 7.8 180 50 2:24 pm

110 0 0 6.8 240 50 2:29 pm

250 1 0 7.8 180 50 2:36 pm

I went and bought a new bottle of clorox Test strips I tested with.

The same readings as the other test strips , I even called the company and asked why is this bouncing all over the place ? They said it might be a bad batch. I said both of them, with different batch #’s ? I ordered a Kit from Amazon a Taylor Deluxe. It will be here this Friday. I will test it then. But I can’t treat my pool until I know the true reading. I’m at a loss as of right now. But I will Let you know what the reading are and if the test strips were giving a bad reading.

Barack James (author) from Green City in the Sun on July 31, 2019:

Hello Susan, if you added muriatic acid TA should be moving down. Which test kit are you using? There could be problem in your chemical measurements or you are not adding the right amount of Muriatic acid to lower TA between 80 and 120ppm.

Draining and refilling portion of your pool water should be the last option just to lower TA because strong acid should lower it. However, if unable to get it down using Muriatic acid, you can go ahead and drain portion of your water and refill with fresh water, then start balancing your chemicals. Also, with your FC at 0ppm, you are risking developing algae and ammonia and you should work hard to balance your chemicals soon then shock your swimming pool.

Susan A Newton on July 31, 2019:

Hello Again Barack,

I still can’t get the TA to come down. It never moved from 180. I Use the Pool Calculator . My PH was to start 6.8 , TA 180. I entered the readings to the Pool calculator and followed what to do. I added borax to the pool. It took the Ph up to 8.4 and then I used Muriatic acid the next day. Just what the pool calculator advised me to do. I tested it 6 hrs later the PH was 7.8 . Today I just tested the pool and the reading are,

Total hardness 110

Total Chlorine 0

Free chlorine 0

PH 6.8 ( I tested 6 times in different places)

TA 180 ( It never moved)

Stabilizer 50

Since the first time I posted a question to you I have been trying to get the TA down and ph up to make them stable. I’m having trouble with both . I even have been using a fountain to aerator to keep the PH up. What am I doing wrong? I have done this 3 times and still no luck on the TA . I can bring the ph up and down but not the TA. I use the sticks to test the water . If that is any help. Should I empty the pool refill it? I have use well water to fill it. Help Please. Thank you for any and all help .

Barack James (author) from Green City in the Sun on July 26, 2019:

You can swim as soon as your pH and TA are balanced. Good work Susan, just add Muriatic acid and borax a couple of times and your TA will come down to recommended levels. Nice weekend.

Susan A Newton on July 26, 2019:

Thank you Barack, I did raise the PH to 7.8 the TA is still 180. Once I get them both to where they need to be , how long before we can swim, Tomorrow? I live in S.C. Again Thank you . Have a beautiful weekend.

Barack James (author) from Green City in the Sun on July 25, 2019:

There is no way to lower TA without lowering your pH. The best thing you can do is raise your pH first up to around 7.8 using Borax that will not raise your TA, then add Muriatic acid to lower both pH and TA. You need to be very careful not lower your pH below 7.2. If your pH has 7.2 but TA is still high, add more borax to raise your pH again up to around 7.8, then add Muriatic acid to lower both once more till you get your TA within the range. Repeat the process of adding borax to raise pH and Muriatic acid to lower both until you balance your pH and TA.

Susan Newton on July 25, 2019:

Hi, I have an vinyl in ground pool 16’x 40′ 6′ deep 4′ shallow end.

I.m having issues with high TA 180 and low PH 6.8. I seen where you said to accelerate the aeration process. what does that do ?. I want to know how to lower my TA without lowering my PH anymore then it is. I read about using Borax with out upping the TA, Is that True? I just need to know what I have to do. Thank you.

Barack James (author) from Green City in the Sun on July 19, 2019:

Muriatic acid should help in reducing both the pH and alkalinity. You need to be very careful not to lower your pH below 7.2. If your pH has reached down to 7.2 and Alkalinity is still high, add 20 Mule Team Borax to raise pH higher around 7.8 then add more Muriatic acid to lower both until both are balanced.

Kate on July 19, 2019:

Hi we have a spa pool ph is 8.4 alkalinity 240

We have just cleaned and refilled spa following instructions we were given

How do we get both down to good levels

We got oh increase and decrease and alkaline up

Spa magic

What else should we buy

Barack James (author) from Green City in the Sun on June 15, 2019:

No, those levels are too high. Total Alkalinity(TA) should be between 80 to 120ppm and pH between 7.2 and 7.8. Use muriatic acid to lower both TA and pH between the the recommended range. Add muriatic acid slowly by slowly so that your pH doesn’t go below 7.2. If the TA is still but pH has reached 7.2, use 20 Mule Team Borax to raise the pH to around 7.8 and add more Muriatic acid till both are balanced.

Steve on June 14, 2019:

Alkalinity is 200ppm ph is 8.0 is this ok

Barack James (author) from Green City in the Sun on September 19, 2018:

Hello Frenchfrey, your alkalinity is too low, use a different alkalinity increaser like the one by Pool Mate you can find on Amazon through a link in the same article. But first work on balancing the pH using a pH reducer, then lastly balance out your TA .

Frenchfrey on September 19, 2018:

I have an in ground fiberglass pool. All summer my total alkalinity has been low (around 50) while my ph has been very high. I have tried using alkalinity increases which also raises my ph, and then ph down which then brings down my total alkalinity. Very frustrating. Any help would be appreciated.

Barack James (author) from Green City in the Sun on June 11, 2018:

Your pH is too low and TA too high: You need to bring down the TA using Muriatic acid. But since muriatic acid will further bring down the pH level too; you first have to raise the pH level up to around 8 using 20 Mule Team Borax (not pH+) – and then carefully add muriatic acid to bring down both TA and pH. TA should read between 100 – 125 ppm for plaster pools and pH between 7.4 – 7.6. If your pH goes down below the recommended levels and TA still high; you will have to repeat the process till they both balance out. You can find 20 Mule Team Borax and Muriatic acid on Amazon through the links in the same article. Good luck Roy!

Roy Paap on June 11, 2018:

my pool is very clear i have a aquacheck didgital tester the chlorine reads ok the ph reads 6.6 and the alk reads high at180 how do i fix it to be right my pool is inground plastered and old paint is flaking off thanks for any suggestions roy

Barack James (author) from Green City in the Sun on September 03, 2017:

Hi Cottpool, thanks for your comment. Either of the test kit is just OK. However, Lamotte colorQ pro 11 can do a few more tests including copper, iron, and biguanide; which are not very important pool chemical tests and you can do without. So the choice will depend on the amount you are willing to spend on a pool water test kit.

Cottpool on September 03, 2017:

Thanks for sharing. Good information to use for pool maintenance. Will follow your advise on the LaMotte ColorPro Kit. I noticed there are versions 9 & 11 which are for both pool and spa. What are your recommendations?

Barack James (author) from Green City in the Sun on July 13, 2017:

Rosa, seems you have a lot of work here. The pH is very low, don’t add more muriatic acid because pH will go much down and may cause more problem like corrosion and metal staining. Just leave your pool to aerate for at least 2 – 3 days without adding any chemical while your pump is on 24/7 for the pH level to rise up above 7.6 ppm by itself.

Also, if you can find and use any aerator like pool water fountain equipment, please do so that you speed up the process of raising the pH level first. Once you get your pH higher, you can then use muriatic to lower both the alkalinity and pH. This time, you will need to watch on the level of pH while adding muriatic acid so that pH does not get below 7.2 ppm. That means you will have to repeat the process until you get your total alkalinity down to recommended level that is 80 ppm to 120 ppm. Alternatively, you can use 20 Mule Team Borax (on Amazon link above) to raise your pH without raising TA and then add muriatic acid to lower both.

Finally, since you are using well water in your pool, when you are done balancing your pH and TA, remember to add Borate in your pool to help keep the pH stable so that it does not drift down again. Here is a link to how you can add Borate in your pool: https://discover.hubpages.com/living/Adding-Borate… – Please feel free to ask more questions or communicate your progress here as you work on your pool. Good-luck!

Rosa on July 13, 2017:

Ph is 6.8 and alkalinity is 240 ive added muratic acid twice and doesnt seem to be going down i do live in county so i have well water

Barack James (author) from Green City in the Sun on July 13, 2017:

Hi Rosa, what is your pH reading? The pH must be high too. You need to add more muriatic acid to farther lower both TA and pH, then give your pool time to aerate in order to raise the pH level. Please take readings for both TA and pH after 24 hours and not immediately as this process may need more time to get perfect balance of TA and pH.

Rosa on July 13, 2017:

I have tried to get my pool levels to the correct level and ots just not working im not sure what else i can do i have put muratic acid in my pool and alkalinity is still way too high mt pool watwr is very cloudy and im not sure what else to do!

Barack James (author) from Green City in the Sun on June 05, 2017:

Magnum that is true, Super Floc is the solution for a cloudy water caused by lots of debris. It is perfect for spring start-up when pools have lots of dirt common in the spring seasons. Floc has a fast-acting formula that drops debris to the bottom of the pool for easy vacuuming. Super Floc is also safe for all pool types and works with all filter types.

Magnum Wessell on June 05, 2017:

Lanea head use a floc such as drop out to settle the cloudy water to bottom then vacuum out

Barack James (author) from Green City in the Sun on April 29, 2017:

Hi, Lanea Head, from my understanding, your pool is still under control, all you need is an accurate test kit (See:https://discover.hubpages.com/living/Lamotte-Color… ) since there is a high chance that the chemicals (PH, CH, TA, etc) are not well balanced in that pool. Also, ensure that your filtration and circulation system is perfect (not stagnant). You can follow this link for more options you can use to identify the cause of cloudiness and how to clear your cloudy pool water: https://discover.hubpages.com/living/Cloudy-Swimmi…

Lanea Head on April 28, 2017:

I just opened our 30,000 gallon above ground pool for the summer.

It was yucky green with lots if algae. I brushed the walls and the bottom then vacuumed it. Later that night I shocked it (heavily) and put 3 chlorine tablets in the skimmer basket, and poured 2 gallons of liquid chlorine into the water . The next morning the the green was gone but the water was very cloudy. I vacuumed it really well and let the filter do its job for a few days thinking it would clear up but it is still cloudy. Now two weeks later it’s still cloudy. Last night I shocked it again using more shocked than needed. I get up this morning and it’s still cloudy so I vacuumed it and now I have the filter running. It’s not as cloudy as it was to begin with I can see to about my third pool step. The test kit that I use only measures bbr, chlorine, and pH. It says my pH is low and my chlorine is high. Do you have any tips or advice for me? I have for kids that are waiting on this swimming pool and I can’t seem to clear it up